NEW SCULPTURE | Calcaterra FW17/18 Collection
The expressive, material works of Richard Serra – solid geometric structures, rusted metal on disjointed monoliths, openings scattered amidst new horizons and spatial perspectives – are the imaginary line running through the entire CALCATERRA FW 17/18 collection. In a sequence of unconventional concave and convex surfaces, straight and curved lines, the silhouette is disassembled through cuts and materials. Oversized menswear coats with maxi martingales and panels of fabric are the geometric elements that CALCATERRA uses to build a rhythmic structure within space, contrasting flat surfaces and curved lines.
As for the American sculptor, material is the subject of intense study also for Daniele Calcaterra: double-face fabric is transformed into geometric surfaces, crepe is heavy and flowing, and Japanese bonded fabrics give cool wool a modern twist with sensuous textured volumes. Heavy raw silk mikado is covered with innovative angora and mohair embellishments and details, tracing new proportions amidst the forms and carefully studied materials that have always characterized CALCATERRA’s personal signature style.
Serra’s severe, minimalist geometric shapes alternating curved and straight lines are reflected in the constantly moving horizons of the volumes in this collection. Like a long ribbon running through space, men’s jackets are sometimes voluminous and other times fitted. Wide legs on trousers emphasize fullness in contrast with the narrow, high waist.
The direct and simple color palette abandons all celebratory form. Blue is dark, almost black, and burgundy is as austere as the steel of Serra’s “walls”. Rigor and minimalism, irony and flawless form come together in a stylistic journey that deliberately confounds the viewer but gathers the most intimate and personal signature styles of CALCATERRA in a continuous dialog between form and the surrounding environment.